Seville's Secret

Somewhere lost within the charming maze of Santa Cruz in the Andalusian city of Seville is La Carboneria, the only place in this beautiful city to enjoy flamenco for free. Sultry and enthralling, this emotional dance undoubtedly captures the native heart and soul of this region of Spain- an absolute must-see for any visitor. At first, this little flamenco bar seemed typically local: old men quietly playing chequers, heavy cigar smoke suspended in the air. Yet the dynamic world of flamenco beckoned through an interior wooden door, an animated atmosphere of pure flamenco passion. Sure, when we turned up the bar was rammed with tourists (try not to go on a Saturday night), but even this could not spoil the spectacle. Instead, just one dancer, one singer, and one guitarist effortlessly mesmerized the room. Proudly expressive, the dancer elegantly conjured flamenco magic- incredible to watch with her colourful dress and strict percussive movements. Not to be outdone, the accompanying vocalist’s metrical palmas (handclaps) rhythmically placed a spell on the audience- his afillá, or singing voice, pure honey for the ear with its distinctive earthy quality. Alongside the bright, sharp tones of the flamenco guitar, this was an enchantingly understated performance. The bar, as stifling hot as the fire of the flamenco dance itself, could perhaps have benefitted from some air conditioning, but with reasonably-priced drinks (a pitcher of sangria cost only 9 euros), and an atmosphere humming with anticipation, this was easily forgotten. Be warned, however: La Carboneria is so discreet its entrance doesn’t even bear a name, and in the labyrinth of Santa Cruz, it is very likely you will get lost trying to find Calle Levíes. When this happens, keep searching. This is Spain as Hemingway knew it: a passionate, unspoiled heartland doggedly clinging to the rich traditions of its past. Informal yet captivating, La Carboneria’s flamenco is Seville’s little secret. 

http://www.levies18.com/