The charm of
Seville, Andalusia’s sunny capital, lies in its exquisite Moorish architecture-
cobbled streets lined with graceful ogee arches, ceramic murals, and vivid,
vivid colour. It’s the first thing that hits you as you arrive into the city, besides
the tangy aroma of ripened oranges and the intense heat (yes, even in October- I am seriously considering emigrating). To truly appreciate this exquisite mudéjar
architecture, you must visit the Alcázar, an extravagant royal palace that
crowns the heart of the city. Sprawled alongside the magnificent cathedral,
this is an endlessly unfolding treasure trove of opulent patios and courtyards
within courtyards that transport you back in time. Originally a Moorish fortress built in the 10th
century, the present-day Alcázar boasts Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance ingredients
added over the centuries by various royal decrees. Huge would be an understatement-
it is unbelievably vast, a labyrinthine network of different cultural influences,
almost a city in itself. We definitely did not leave ourselves enough time to
cover the whole palace- an entire day could easily be passed just wandering the
stunning pavilions and sumptuous, sunken gardens. This is a palace in a truly
legendary sense- no surprises, then, that it doubled as the King
of Jerusalem's court in the Ridley Scott film Kingdom
of Heaven. Don’t let the long queues put you off- Seville may be famous for its fiery flamenco, but a trip to the city really is incomplete without
stepping through the palace’s main Lion’s Gate into Spain’s rich Moorish past.
From arts and fashion to food and travel: an eclectic mix of thoughts for your viewing pleasure
Sunday, 23 October 2011
Monday, 17 October 2011
Seville's Secret
Somewhere lost within
the charming maze of Santa Cruz in the Andalusian city of Seville is La
Carboneria, the only place in this beautiful city to enjoy flamenco for free. Sultry
and enthralling, this emotional dance undoubtedly captures the native heart and
soul of this region of Spain- an absolute must-see for any visitor. At first, this
little flamenco bar seemed typically local: old men quietly playing chequers,
heavy cigar smoke suspended in the air. Yet the dynamic world of flamenco
beckoned through an interior wooden door, an animated atmosphere of pure flamenco
passion. Sure, when we turned up the bar was rammed with tourists (try not to
go on a Saturday night), but even this could not spoil the spectacle. Instead, just
one dancer, one singer, and one guitarist effortlessly mesmerized the room. Proudly
expressive, the dancer elegantly conjured flamenco magic- incredible to watch
with her colourful dress and strict percussive movements. Not to be outdone, the
accompanying vocalist’s metrical palmas (handclaps) rhythmically placed a spell
on the audience- his afillá, or singing voice, pure honey for the ear with its distinctive earthy
quality. Alongside the bright, sharp tones of the flamenco guitar, this was an enchantingly
understated performance. The bar, as stifling hot as the fire of the flamenco
dance itself, could perhaps have benefitted from some air conditioning, but
with reasonably-priced drinks (a pitcher of sangria cost only 9 euros), and an
atmosphere humming with anticipation, this was easily forgotten. Be warned,
however: La Carboneria is so discreet its entrance doesn’t even bear a name,
and in the labyrinth of Santa Cruz, it is very likely you will get lost trying to
find Calle Levíes. When this happens, keep searching. This is Spain as Hemingway
knew it: a passionate, unspoiled heartland doggedly clinging to the rich
traditions of its past. Informal yet captivating, La Carboneria’s flamenco is
Seville’s little secret.
Tuesday, 11 October 2011
The simple pleasure of chocolate
Chocolate honestly cannot get any
better than here at Chocolateria Valor, a cosy little cafe off Salamanca’s Rua
Mayor. As you walk in the door, the warm aroma of freshly made chocolate wraps
itself around you so hard it practically gives you a welcoming hug. From that
moment on, there’s really no turning back- I am no avid chocolate lover, but
even I was instantly seduced (the giant chocolate pictures plastered across the
walls certainly didn’t help). We came here with one goal in mind: chocolate con
churros (a lucky decision- taking a peek at the delicious menu would probably have
been disastrous for both purse and waistline). Churros- sort of like an
unfurled Spanish doughnut- are traditionally eaten for breakfast dipped in hot
chocolate (or sometimes sprinkled with sugar, another recommended option).
Valor’s reputation for churros precedes it- and it certainly did not
disappoint. The chocolate was beautifully rich, so velvety we didn’t so much
dip our churros but rather completely immersed them. I would have plunged my
head in there if the cup hadn’t been so damn small. Master chocolatiers since
1881, this is one company that has gracefully perfected the art of making chocolate-
perfect as Valor has cafes in most Spanish cities, spreading the chocolate love.
Two churros and a cup of pure chocolate later, we were feeling extremely
guilty. Yet just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat anymore, they had cleverly
placed the chocolate shop by the entrance- making it almost impossible to leave
without perusing the delicately crafted chocolate selection. It’s a stroke of
genius really, given that those who walk in here are unlikely to possess so
much as an inch of willpower. This is not a cafe for those watching their
waistline- the tempting menu offers chocolate delicacies from the
widely-popular brownie and a ridiculous variation on chocolate icecream, to
Yumbé specialities for those finer connoisseurs (chocolate maya and chocolate Aztec
drinks crafted from truly exquisite cocoa looked the most appealing). Visit
Valor and just surrender- there’s a reason why chocolate’s scientific name, Theobroma cacao, means food of the gods.
Sunday, 9 October 2011
Chez Victor
Tucked away in
the long shadow of the majestic San Esteban convent in Salamanca sits the unassuming
restaurant Victor Gutiérrez, Michelin-starred and arguably home to the best
food in the city. Named after the chef Víctor Manuel Gutiérrez Vallès, each dish is a gastronomic masterpiece- a distinct fusion
of Peruvian hints exquisitely enriched by Spanish, Chinese and Japanese textures.
We sampled the tasting menu, a decision that really should be made only by
those with a very confident appetite, particularly given the constant stream of
delicious freshly-baked bread rolls (raisin, onion or plain white) served
alongside fine Incan spices in olive oil. Three bread rolls later, and I was in serious danger of being full before the proper tasting had even got under way. First
on the menu, a finely-carved roast beef that was elegantly offset by a piquant Peruvian flavour.
Next, squid ink risotto with wafer-thin tuna slices so hot they actually moved,
somewhat unnerving but easily overcome by just feigning ignorance and digging
in. The delicate fillet of cod that then followed was so flawlessly cooked it was like some kind of Peruvian fiesta for the mouth. Finally, the pièce-de-resistance: the best roast
cuchinello I've ever tasted with a perfectly crispy skin, a real speciality in this region of Spain. By the time it came for dessert, we could barely breathe, let alone move (I
made the mistake of wearing a tightly-belted dress, definitely won’t be making that rookie
error again) – but with not one, but two dessert dishes, this was one tasting menu that
still had more tricks up its sleeve. Thankfully, the rich chocolate brownie was
ingeniously placed on a bed of mango sauce so felt less heavy than it looked
(what a relief after the banquet we'd just consumed...); whilst the crisply-cut apple
wedges artistically embedded in melon ice cream served to neatly cleanse the palate. We
accompanied the meal with a Cambrico red wine, a speciality in this Castilla y
Leon region with its complex aroma of raspberries, blackberries and liquorice that
neatly counterbalanced the menu’s rich flavours. With a mere ten sittings at
any one time, this was a quietly intimate dining experience- the room's blank walls
and just three impeccable waitresses adding to the restaurant's refreshingly unpretentious
atmosphere. At €80 a head for the tasting menu,
this is perhaps a restaurant to visit for a special occasion- but I promise it's an outstanding culinary experience that is worth every last cent.
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