The Allure of the Alcázar

The charm of Seville, Andalusia’s sunny capital, lies in its exquisite Moorish architecture- cobbled streets lined with graceful ogee arches, ceramic murals, and vivid, vivid colour. It’s the first thing that hits you as you arrive into the city, besides the tangy aroma of ripened oranges and the intense heat (yes, even in October- I am seriously considering emigrating). To truly appreciate this exquisite mudéjar architecture, you must visit the Alcázar, an extravagant royal palace that crowns the heart of the city. Sprawled alongside the magnificent cathedral, this is an endlessly unfolding treasure trove of opulent patios and courtyards within courtyards that transport you back in time. Originally a Moorish fortress built in the 10^th century, the present-day Alcázar boasts Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance ingredients added over the centuries by various royal decrees. Huge would be an understatement- it is unbelievably vast, a labyrinthine network of different cultural influences, almost a city in itself. We definitely did not leave ourselves enough time to cover the whole palace- an entire day could easily be passed just wandering the stunning pavilions and sumptuous, sunken gardens. This is a palace in a truly legendary sense- no surprises, then, that it doubled as the King of Jerusalem's court in the Ridley Scott film Kingdom of Heaven. Don’t let the long queues put you off- Seville may be famous for its fiery flamenco, but a trip to the city really is incomplete without stepping through the palace’s main Lion’s Gate into Spain’s rich Moorish past.

http://www.patronato-alcazarsevilla.es/

Seville's Secret

Somewhere lost within the charming maze of Santa Cruz in the Andalusian city of Seville is La Carboneria, the only place in this beautiful city to enjoy flamenco for free. Sultry and enthralling, this emotional dance undoubtedly captures the native heart and soul of this region of Spain- an absolute must-see for any visitor. At first, this little flamenco bar seemed typically local: old men quietly playing chequers, heavy cigar smoke suspended in the air. Yet the dynamic world of flamenco beckoned through an interior wooden door, an animated atmosphere of pure flamenco passion. Sure, when we turned up the bar was rammed with tourists (try not to go on a Saturday night), but even this could not spoil the spectacle. Instead, just one dancer, one singer, and one guitarist effortlessly mesmerized the room. Proudly expressive, the dancer elegantly conjured flamenco magic- incredible to watch with her colourful dress and strict percussive movements. Not to be outdone, the accompanying vocalist’s metrical palmas (handclaps) rhythmically placed a spell on the audience- his afillá, or singing voice, pure honey for the ear with its distinctive earthy quality. Alongside the bright, sharp tones of the flamenco guitar, this was an enchantingly understated performance. The bar, as stifling hot as the fire of the flamenco dance itself, could perhaps have benefitted from some air conditioning, but with reasonably-priced drinks (a pitcher of sangria cost only 9 euros), and an atmosphere humming with anticipation, this was easily forgotten. Be warned, however: La Carboneria is so discreet its entrance doesn’t even bear a name, and in the labyrinth of Santa Cruz, it is very likely you will get lost trying to find Calle Levíes. When this happens, keep searching. This is Spain as Hemingway knew it: a passionate, unspoiled heartland doggedly clinging to the rich traditions of its past. Informal yet captivating, La Carboneria’s flamenco is Seville’s little secret. 

http://www.levies18.com/

The simple pleasure of chocolate

Chocolate honestly cannot get any better than here at Chocolateria Valor, a cosy little cafe off Salamanca’s Rua Mayor. As you walk in the door, the warm aroma of freshly made chocolate wraps itself around you so hard it practically gives you a welcoming hug. From that moment on, there’s really no turning back- I am no avid chocolate lover, but even I was instantly seduced (the giant chocolate pictures plastered across the walls certainly didn’t help). We came here with one goal in mind: chocolate con churros (a lucky decision- taking a peek at the delicious menu would probably have been disastrous for both purse and waistline). Churros- sort of like an unfurled Spanish doughnut- are traditionally eaten for breakfast dipped in hot chocolate (or sometimes sprinkled with sugar, another recommended option). Valor’s reputation for churros precedes it- and it certainly did not disappoint. The chocolate was beautifully rich, so velvety we didn’t so much dip our churros but rather completely immersed them. I would have plunged my head in there if the cup hadn’t been so damn small. Master chocolatiers since 1881, this is one company that has gracefully perfected the art of making chocolate- perfect as Valor has cafes in most Spanish cities, spreading the chocolate love. Two churros and a cup of pure chocolate later, we were feeling extremely guilty. Yet just when we thought we couldn’t possibly eat anymore, they had cleverly placed the chocolate shop by the entrance- making it almost impossible to leave without perusing the delicately crafted chocolate selection. It’s a stroke of genius really, given that those who walk in here are unlikely to possess so much as an inch of willpower. This is not a cafe for those watching their waistline- the tempting menu offers chocolate delicacies from the widely-popular brownie and a ridiculous variation on chocolate icecream, to Yumbé specialities for those finer connoisseurs (chocolate maya and chocolate Aztec drinks crafted from truly exquisite cocoa looked the most appealing). Visit Valor and just surrender- there’s a reason why chocolate’s scientific name, Theobroma cacao, means food of the gods.  

http://www.chocolateriasvalor.es/

Chez Victor

Tucked away in the long shadow of the majestic San Esteban convent in Salamanca sits the unassuming restaurant Victor Gutiérrez, Michelin-starred and arguably home to the best food in the city. Named after the chef Víctor Manuel Gutiérrez Vallès, each dish is a gastronomic masterpiece- a distinct fusion of Peruvian hints exquisitely enriched by Spanish, Chinese and Japanese textures. We sampled the tasting menu, a decision that really should be made only by those with a very confident appetite, particularly given the constant stream of delicious freshly-baked bread rolls (raisin, onion or plain white) served alongside fine Incan spices in olive oil. Three bread rolls later, and I was in serious danger of being full before the proper tasting had even got under way. First on the menu, a finely-carved roast beef that was elegantly offset by a piquant Peruvian flavour. Next, squid ink risotto with wafer-thin tuna slices so hot they actually moved, somewhat unnerving but easily overcome by just feigning ignorance and digging in. The delicate fillet of cod that then followed was so flawlessly cooked it was like some kind of Peruvian fiesta for the mouth. Finally, the pièce-de-resistance: the best roast cuchinello I've ever tasted with a perfectly crispy skin, a real speciality in this region of Spain. By the time it came for dessert, we could barely breathe, let alone move (I made the mistake of wearing a tightly-belted dress, definitely won’t be making that rookie error again) – but with not one, but two dessert dishes, this was one tasting menu that still had more tricks up its sleeve. Thankfully, the rich chocolate brownie was ingeniously placed on a bed of mango sauce so felt less heavy than it looked (what a relief after the banquet we'd just consumed...); whilst the crisply-cut apple wedges artistically embedded in melon ice cream served to neatly cleanse the palate. We accompanied the meal with a Cambrico red wine, a speciality in this Castilla y Leon region with its complex aroma of raspberries, blackberries and liquorice that neatly counterbalanced the menu’s rich flavours. With a mere ten sittings at any one time, this was a quietly intimate dining experience- the room's blank walls and just three impeccable waitresses adding to the restaurant's refreshingly unpretentious atmosphere. At €80 a head for the tasting menu, this is perhaps a restaurant to visit for a special occasion- but I promise it's an outstanding culinary experience that is worth every last cent.

http://restaurantevictorgutierrez.com/